Destination

Destination of the week:

Gubbio, Umbria

The Romans called Gubbio Iguvium, yet this beautiful, fortified hilltown in Umbria dates from long before that. In December, the slopes of Monte Ingino, which overlook Gubbio, are decorated with lights that form the world’s biggest Christmas tree, visible from 30 miles away.

It’s probably the only thing about Gubbio that’s flashy and overstated. At times the rest of the town is so perfectly preserved as an understated testament to medieval architecture and charm that it seems almost like stepping into a historical oasis.

Homes for sale Umbria

Gubbio’s attractions instead speak of the centuries of history in which they are steeped. It helps explain the growing popularity of homes for sale, Umbria’s best-kept secret proving increasingly hard to keep that way.

It is quite easy to find property for sale in Gubbio Umbria at very affordable prices, whether you are looking at a holiday villa, an investment property, an apartment or a farm house in Umbria.

Gubbio, almost like the Christmas tree, spreads itself leisurely over the side of Monte Ingino. Here it sits in near-splendid isolation, an intimate town of just 16,800 inhabitants. It is also relatively remote (the nearest train station is some 25km away, which means it is not besieged by hordes of tourists, even in high season). And once here, it means you can enjoy the town your unhurried leisure.

While you are at it make sure you see the Palazzo dei Consoli in Piazza Grande, home to the Museo Civico, in which are kept the Tavole Eugubine, seven bronze tablets some 2,300 years old and the sole remaining record of the ancient pre-Roman tongue of Umbrian. They were unearthed in the 15th century. The Gothic Palazzo is also home to the Museo Archeologico, which has a collection of bronzes and ceramics and a Byzantine sarcophagus.

The entire building remains a potent symbol of Gubbio’s might in centuries gone by and it is one of Italy’s most attractive public palaces. Other must-sees include San Francesco church, which has 15th-century frescoes, and the Duomo. There is also a Roman theatre dating from the first century AD, the second-biggest standing one anywhere in the world.

But in many ways the entire town is a monument and the best way to see Gubbio, a picturesque warren of narrow streets and alleyways, is on foot. After all, in the early 13th century St Francis of Assisi trekked here all the way from the town that bears his name. By the way, folklore has it that he tamed a wolf terrorising Gubbio residents.

If wandering around by foot, start at the Piazza Quaranta Martiri (Square of the 40 martyrs), poignantly named after the citizens massacred here by the Nazis in revenge for partisan raids. San Francesco church sits on its west side.

If you feel up to it, climb up Monte Ingino to the Sanctuary of Sant’Ubaldo, named after Gubbio’s patron saint. Alternatively, if all that walking around has tired you out, hop on a funicular up the slope. If you get off at the church, walk a little further up the mountain past it to Rocca; the spectacular views from here are worth the climb.

Mediaeval pageantry plays a huge part in Umbria tradition and Gubbio is no different. The final Sunday in May sees the tow host the Palio della Balestra, a crossbow contest with its roots in the 15th century.

Even more quaintly, if you wandered into the Sanctuary of Sant’Ubaldo you might have wondered what three seven-metre high wooden candles were doing there. The answer is that they are the centrepiece of the Corsa dei Ceri festival, which originates from the 12th century.
Every May 15 - the eve of the feast of Sant’Ubaldo – Gubbio grinds to a halt to watch the candles carried in a procession through the streets. Each candle is topped by a wax figure of a saint – Ubaldo, saint of masons, Giorgio, saint of merchants and Anthony, saint of farm workers.

After the march through the town, the evening sees the race proper, starting in Piazza Grande and finishing at the church of Sant’Ubaldo up the mountainside. Don’t be tempted to place a bet, though – the Ubaldo candle always wins.

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