| Destination of the week: |
| | Lake Trasimeno, Umbria |
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Lake Trasimeno has been rightly described as one of the world’s best beach holidays by Britain’s Guardian newspaper.
The lake, some 28 miles in circumference on the border between Umbria and Tuscany, is Italy’s fourth largest and the biggest non-Alpine lake.
It is overlooked by mountains to the east and north and by more gently undulating hills, with vineyards and olive groves, to the south and west. Beneath them, the expanse of water stretches out like a mirror.
Property in Lake Trasimeno, Umbria
Towns close to Lake Trasimeno offer superb views over the water and property in Umbria’s Riviera, as this area is sometimes dubbed, is unsurprisingly highly sought-after.
If you’re looking for villas, houses, apartments and homes for sale, Umbria’s picturesque Lake Trasimeno can be surprisingly affordable, if you’re prepared to look around.
For instance, as a restoration project, a four-bedroom house in Tuoro with a view of the lake can be snapped up for € 130,000, while a two-bedroom apartment in Tuoro but without lake view can cost about the same.
One of Lake Trasimeno’s attractions is the fact that it is a magnet for watersports enthusiasts, with sailing and waterskiing particularly popular.
However, you don’t need to don your aqua-gear to take to the water.
Going by boat is an idyllic way to see it, and there are frequent services, especially in high season, linking the main ports of Passignano, Tuoro and Castiglione.
The lake has three islands and there are boat links to the biggest two, Isola Polvese (from San Feliciano) and Isola Maggiore (from Passignano, Tuoro and Castiglione). There’s not much to see on uninhabited Polvese, which was evacuated nearly 400 years ago in a malaria epidemic. Little remains save for a medieval castle and monastery.
Maggiore, on the other hand, boasts a vibrant 15th century fishing village with ancient churches and the ruins of a castle. And the women here are famed for their embroidery skills.
The biggest town on Lake Trasimeno is Castiglione del Lago, which juts out of the western shore and is home to a population of just under 14,000. Its main features are the 16th century Palazzo Della Corgna, or Palazzo Ducale, which is open to the public and houses numerous impressive frescoes.
From the Palazzo a sheltered walkway leads to the 13th century, five-sided Rocca del Leone. Also worth seeing in Castiglione is the Maddalena church, dating from the 19th century. Once sight-seeing’s over, the town centre is a fantastic place for picking up local truffles and cheeses.
On the north-east shore of the lake stands Tuoro sul Trasimeno, whose serene beauty often belies its blood-soaked history. It was near here in June 217BC that Hannibal of Carthage massacred the Roman army during the Second Punic War.
The dark episode lives on in the names of local villages such as Sanguineto (from sangue, Italian for blood) and Ossaia (from ossa, bones).
The ancient battlefield is well signposted and is covered with information pedestals.
Nowadays the foreigners who come here are drawn by its beautiful sandy beaches and the relaxing serenity of its view over Lake Trasimeno.
While you’re here, stop and admire the Campo del Sole, a whirled arrangement of 27 obelisks, each around 3.5m high and made by a different sculptor.
A few miles further east lies the village of Passignano sul Trasimeno, a warren of narrow streets and alleyways that hides a characteristic 14th century castle. There is also a scenic lakeside promenade.
Passignano is Lake Maggiore’s premiere resort and particularly comes to life for the Palio delle Barche, in which youngsters in medieval costume carry their boats through the town before taking to the water to race.
Next along is the medieval fortress town of Castel Rigone, worth stopping at if only for its 15th century Madonna dei Miracoli church, featuring a statue of St Anthony Abbot and his pet pig.
The main town on the east coast is Magione, which has some of the best beaches on all the lake.
Nearby lie the village of San Feliciano, which has stunning sunsets and also houses a museum dedicated to the fishermen who earn their living from the lake; and Oasi delle Valle, a mecca for bird-watchers.
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