| Destination of the week: |
| | Portofino, Liguria |
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It’s tempting to think of Portofino in Liguria, Italy, as the property solely of the world’s rich and famous. Tempting, but wrong.
This gem of the Italian Riviera may have started life as a humble Italian fishing village but while it retains its small, exclusive charm, it has drawn in some pretty big fish.
Portofino has for decades attracted the who’s who of international celebrity to this corner of north-west Italy, from Frank Sinatra, Brigitte Bardot and Liz Taylor in 1950s to Denzel Washington, George Clooney and Tom Cruise today.
Among its other appealing features, Portofino is renowned for the striking kaleidoscope of pastel-coloured fishermen’s houses that make up its famously picturesque harbour.
The imposing yachts sit here alongside the small wooden fishing vessels as an apt metaphor: old charm and new wealth side by side. Yet Portofino is made to be appreciated by visitors from all walks of life, regardless of budget.
Property for sale in Liguria (Italian Riviera)
If you’re thinking of coming to this part of Italy to look at houses and other property for sale in Liguria, rather than seek to buy in Portofino itself, one smart tip is to look at nearby towns such as Recco, Camogli, Pieve Liguria, Sori and even Genoa, just over 20 miles away.
You will find property for sale in Liguria tends to be more affordable once you leave Portofino. In Recco, for instance, expect to pay around €200,000 for a one-bedroom apartment and €300,000 for a smart two-bedroom apartment.
Portofino’s beauty isn’t confined to its waterfront, with its houses topped by geraniums and surrounded by olive groves and pine trees.
In fact the attractions of this part of Italy are ideal to be explored on foot, and many visitors do. With parking being somewhat on the pricy side it’s often the sensible option. A good number of tourists who have a hire car leave it at Santa Margherita Ligure a couple of miles away and get a bus. If you must get around on wheels – and many of Portofino’s streets are steep – hiring a scooter is another option.
One of the most scenic walks is from the 12th century San Martino church, close to the waterfront, past San Giorgio church, a small pinewood and then to the lighthouse
on Punta del Capo, which boasts stupendous vista over the bay.
Alternatively, en route you may just want to stop off at the 16th-century Castle Brown, a fortress named after the British consul who lived here in the late 19th century. The views here over Portofino and the sea are also fantastic.
The more energetic may want to try the two-hour hike from Portofino to the San Fruttuoso abbey, thought to be up to 1,200 years old and which incorporates a Byzantine church and vaults. Or do it the easy way and hop on the regular ferry service.
Either way, the timeless beauty of this Benedictine retreat makes the trip more than worth your while. In addition the serene waters – this spot is a favourite with divers – conceal a religious statue named Christ of the Deep.
A shaded path leads round the headland to Castello Brown, a stronghold and strategic lookout. Walk on through the pine trees, past turquoise coves to the lighthouse from where there are panoramic views over the bay.
Once you’ve got your head out of the clouds and are back at sea level, you will find Portofino a great place for designer shopping. Or just window shopping, if you find the price tags a little steep.
Once the sun goes down, there are fewer more pleasant ways to spend the evening than a passeggiata (stroll) along the harbour before heading for a waterfront bar or restaurant.
Portofino has its high season in July and August. But in truth visitors, and in particular day trippers, flock here from March through to October. In late autumn it’s still sunny but you avoid the prices and crowds of high summer.
Portofino’s also handily placed for discovering other parts of the Italian Riviera. Genoa, Liguria’s largest city, is about half an hour’s drive away to the west. And around an hour and a half to the east lie the five fishing villages that make up the Cinque Terre, a stretch of coast so awe-inspiring it has been designated a UN World Heritage Site.
How to get here:
Fly to Genoa, then take a bus to Genoa rail station; a train to Santa Margherita Ligure; and a bus for the final couple of miles to Portofino. If going by hire car or taxi from the airport, Portofino is just less than 25 miles away.
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