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Researchers at Kentucky University in the US have repeatedly named Todi “the most livable town in the world”.
An extravagant claim. But one that this picturesque hilltown in Umbria does its best to live up to.
Make no mistake – Todi may be small, with a population of just over 17,000, but it is perfectly formed. It is spectacularly perched atop two hills, some 1,550ft above sea level and on the Tiber’s east bank.
Although it still relies heavily on its agriculture, it has increasingly become a mecca for visitors who want to experience the green, tranquil heart of Italy away from the overrun tourist hotspots of neighbouring Tuscany.
Umbria property for sale
And increasing numbers are choosing to make a property investment in Umbria, properties for sale in Todi being surprisingly affordable. For instance, an 80sq m apartment in the historic centre of Todi can be yours for as little as €180,000. A 240sq m house in Todi is on the market for €380,000. And a beautifully restored 200sq m farmhouse in Umbria, set in two acres, is available for €435,000.
Despite its relatively small size, picturesque Todi is not short of glamour. For one thing, several movies have been filmed here, thanks in no small part to its breathtaking landscape. >
Arguably the most famous – or perhaps infamous – was the ill-fated 1963 epic Cleopatra, which accounts for the photos of a young Elizabeth Taylor that cling to the walls of some of Todi’sbars and restaurants.
Its Piazza del Popolo is undoubtedly Todi’s star attraction, the square, dating from the 13th century, to which Todi’s multitude of visitors are drawn like a magnet.
Many guidebooks hail it as the best medieval piazza not just in Umbria but all Italy and a number of film scenes are shot here.
The piazza’s main feature is the Duomo, which sits on top of a flight of steps. Work on it began in the 12th century and took two further centuries to complete. Its flat, square facade is embellished by a rose window and an ornately decorated doorway.
Inside, there is a 14th century altarpiece by Giannicolo di Paolo. However, it’s fair to say the jury’s split on Ferrau da Faenza’s 16th century Last Judgment, loosely based on Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel masterpiece.
The piazza’s other principal buildings are the Palazzo del Capitano (begun in 1290) next door, the Palazzo del Popolo (1213) which in turn is next to it, and the Palazzo dei Priori (1293-1337).
The Palazzo del Capitano, the square’s southernmost building, is home to Todi’s art gallery and Etruscan-Roman museum. It is also linked by a grand Gothic staircase to Palazzo del Popolo. The Palazzo dei Priori, meanwhile, currently houses Todi town hall.
A short walk away lies Todi’s most famous monument other than the piazza – the church of San Fortunato, which crowns Todi’sother hill. It took some 170 years to build between the 13th and 15th centuries but the facade was never completed.
If you fancy a siesta, stroll along the stony path that runs past the church and have a breather in the Giardino Pubblico (Public Gardens), which is full of cool, shaded nooks and crannies.
Also worth taking in is the Rocca, a huge round tower which is all that remains of Todi’s 13th century citadel.
But for the most spectacular of Todi’s churches, one has to gaze at Santa Maria della Consolazione, which was finally finished in 1607 after nearly a century and which sits amid the green wooded slopes and pastures at the foot of the hill. See for yourself why Victoria travellers hailed it as Italy’s finest Renaissance church.
In addition, be sure to visit the Piazza del Vecchio Mercato, the old market square. Along one side it has four Roman arches called Nicchioni (niches). Their original purpose when they were first erected in around 1AD is shrouded in mystery but they are commonly thought to have been part of a temple or basilica.
Three minutes’ walk away lies the Fonte Scarnabecco, an arched fountain erected in 1241, which in the days before piped water served as a popular social gathering point.
During your time here, venture also onto Via Giacomo Matteotti and look out for a trio of concentric walls demarcating the town’s medieval, Roman and Umbrian city limits.
Getting there
Most visitors will find their easiest route is flying into Perugia international airport, from where Todi is a short 30-minute drive by car.
Alternatively, take one of the regular buses or regular trains to one of Todi’s two stations, Ponte Naia and Ponte Rio. Of the two, the latter probably has the better bus connections into town.
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